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Post by jhornbr225 on Aug 6, 2020 9:02:55 GMT -5
Finally got around to constructing my board yesterday. There are still some resistors to populate. I'm not certain of the voltage coming from the Aux module, if that's what I'm going to use to trigger this thing to boot up. I'd imagine it's not 12V, it's probably 5 or 3.3V. I need to look up the datasheet of the transistors I am using and test a couple values of resistors. I also didn't populate the load resistor for the isolation module. I'm not certain I really need it. I should plug in my USB sound card, figure out how much current it takes. Then I can add a resistor to keep the load higher than the minimum, but less than 200mA. I also need to hack up a USB cable and solder it to the board. I did make a small mistake with the diodes. I had planned on using a 1N4001, but changed my mind at the last minute. I decided to use a 10A schottky instead. It's got very low voltage drop, and handles 10A. Problem is that the leads were thicker than the board was designed for. So I used a little grinder from my dremel kit to make them a little bigger. But, I'm sure that took all the plating off the inside of the hole. It also left very little pad to solder to. I may have to add some wire jumpers to those to ensure they have a good connection. I then made up the wire harness between the big board and the small board. I did find that I'll either have to chop up my case, or get a GPIO riser of some sort in order to get my plug to fit on the Pi and retain my fan. Today I'll be testing it for mistakes and shorts before I plug it into the Pi. No sense damaging the Pi for a stupid mistake.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Aug 7, 2020 13:50:50 GMT -5
Tested the board yesterday, and almost everything works.
No shorts between the 12V-5V-3.3V supplies and ground. I also checked to make sure that the relays pulled in and that the proper GPIO points pulled to ground when I put the input signals on the plugs.
I ended up putting a 2200Ω in the turn on circuit. Since I'm sure I won't be tying that to 12V, that will work fine for either 3.3V or 5V. For the reverse line, I know that will be 12V, so that one got a 4700Ω. If I go to test the turn on while not in the truck, I'll add a 2200Ω in series with the wire so as not to burn up the 2200Ω resistor on the board.
I can't seem to get the isolated USB section to work yet. I double-checked my wiring and it checks out. Next will be to add a load resistor to the output of the isolator. Datasheet says it needs a minimum load of 20mA, so I'll add 220Ω. That should be a load of 22.7mA. That should make it happy. Next would be to put a new USB cord on it. I cut up an old scrap one, and not connecting might be the reason it was in the trash pile. But I thought the problem was at the other end.
I also ordered a GPIO riser. Those things are expensive in the US. Like $5 on amazon. It was $0.85 on Aliexpress with $0.85 shipping. I tried to order 5, but when I did, the shipping went to almost $7! So I ordered 4 and the shipping stayed $0.85. I figured that if it's a little tall i can always cut the pins a little shorter so that it will still fit in the case.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Aug 7, 2020 19:55:28 GMT -5
I may be applying the concept of the isolated supply improperly. without the same ground on the sound card as my computer, they are not communicating. I believe in the video I watched, he used an isolator on the power to his bluetooth device, so that it was not using the same ground as his amplifier. In my setup, the way it's wired, I am isolating the sound card from the Pi. I have not plugged it into the Pi yet, but if my computer does not recognize it, then I'm pretty sure the Pi won't. It might work if there was a way to isolate the power for the audio section of the soundcard, not the communications section. I added this as a "It would be nice if it was isolated". I'm not even sure I have any noise yet. I do see this www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Eliminator-Industrial-Protection/dp/B07GB4CQQ3. It appears that it would break the ground loop between the Pi and the sound card, and give the ability to power the sound card from another source, like maybe the same 5V, but run through my isolator.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Aug 13, 2020 16:03:49 GMT -5
I installed the service and script to auto-shutdown the Pi today. I tested it with jumpers, and it worked, so I ran a few jumpers over to the 40 pin plug from my control board, and put them in the proper pins. It works. I can use a alligator clip to simulate the power antenna lead as an input to my board, and the Pi shuts down cleanly, and then after the timer relay times out, all the power is cut to everything. Cool. I have not fully committed to hooking straight to the Pi. I'll feel more comfortable doing that after the riser adapter arrives. So currently, this is my second desk where I have this hooked up. I'm still powering the Pi with a USB-C cable for the moment. I also have to make some pins so that my fan can plug in when the riser is plugged into the Pi. The Pi4 gets hotter than I am comfortable with if there is no fan.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Sept 25, 2020 19:06:07 GMT -5
Open Auto Pro has gotten another update to version 11.
Changelog
Extended Ctrl+F3 functionality for switching between running applications, OpenAuto Pro and Android Auto/Mirroring projection
Displaying current Android Auto navigation maneuver on OpenAuto Pro interface
Displaying currently playing Android Auto music track on OpenAuto Pro interface
Support of widescreens
OBD-II configuration oriented on gauges instead of PIDs
Ability to use more than one OBD-II PID in gauges calculation
UI improvements
Icons colorization
Customization of font size
Improvements of day theme
Setting for rotation of Android Auto/Mirroring projection
Automatic scrolling of long text (e.g. song title, navigation maneuver description)
Added Chinese (traditional) language
These were some things that were getting a lot of chatter on the forum. I think showing the Navigation maneuver in the Open Auto side seems like a good idea, and showing the Android Auto music track in Open Auto seems useful as well.
Up until this latest version it's really like they were two separate programs that run exclusively, one at a time. I've even noticed that while in the Android Auto side, my mouse does not click on things, I can see the cursor moving because I have it turned on, but I can't click on anything, I have to only use the touchscreen. Probably because that's really my phone's screen, and the mouse is tied to the Pi. So I suppose I can see why that does that.
Also, nothing as far as skinning was exposed to the user. I read somewhere that if you can use a hex editor you can change a color on either the text or the background, I forget which, but it seems very finicky.
I know there were some complaints about volume control, I'll have to see if those were addressed. I think in the Open Auto Pro side there was a slider right on the screen at all times. To change volume in the Android Auto side there was a drop-down at the top, then you can adjust. It won't impact me in my actual install as I'll be using the factory stereo as the amp. I'll just send it a constant volume from the Pi, and control the volume on the radio itself.
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