Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 28, 2019 21:21:16 GMT -5
Well, the single piece build plate frame didn't work. The holes for the bearing mounts were about 1.5mm too far apart between the left and right side. My printer has holes drilled down through the frame which the holders for the Y axis rods screw down into. So I thought that if I didn't use those holes, and got some T-nuts, then I could mount those rod holders anywhere, and space them properly for the one-piece plate.
So I ordered T-Nuts. I went to the Nut and Bolt distributor today and got a bunch of metric hardware. The T-Nuts arrived in the mail today. So I put installed the new rod holders, and split the 3 pieces of the Y-Table apart, as the corner holes of the single piece plate were not sized properly for my heated bed. I bolted the left and right sides to the new Y-Plate, and installed those on the new bearing holders. I then centered all this on the frame and tightened it down.
First problem. The distance on the new rod holders between the opening for the rod and the top is too high to go under the table frame when moving the Y axis all the way to the back or front. So I took off the rod holders, and re-installed the original ones, which are shorter, but kept the T-nuts, so I can adjust the position of the rods, in case the holes they drilled in the frame for the Y axis are not right.
Second problem. Since the original 3 piece table resembled an "H", it left space at the front for the belt tensioner. The single piece table frame didn't have such a notch, limiting the travel to the front. So I took that table off and went back to the 3 piece.
So really the only improvement is that now the rod holders can float left and right. I tried to level the table again, and got the same result. Once the table is level to the print nozzle, it's in a bind and the belt slips, even if you try to tighten it.
As a hunch, I took off the glass plate, and leveled the bed again. Now I can get it level, and there is no binding. I think the addition of the glass is putting everything in a bind. I did run the table to 12 different positions, and checked the spacing between it and the nozzle, and it's pretty close, very little deviation. But, when I set the glass on it, I can see that the glass does not sit level and flush on the table. I've ordered another piece of glass, as I've read the people have gotten warped glass from the factory. Of course all these dimensions can change once the bed is heated up.
Amazon is taking back the plate and the rod holders. Gotta love Amazon returns. I just have to take them to the UPS Store in town. They'll box them up and return them, free.
I've been reading and watching Youtube videos about linear rails. They look like a much better option than the rods. The price is reasonable if you get the clones from China. Everything I see about them though says you have to disassemble them, clean out the factory lubrication, clean the rails, and then re-lube everything. Also, the Chinese roller bearings are not good, so good ol' American ball bearings are a good upgrade.
OK, placed a Banggood order. Got 2 Linear rails, some 2020 profile, some T-Nuts, and some 2020 Corner Brackets. I also included a DPS5015 Bench Power Supply module. If you supply up to 60V, you get a programmable Voltage and Current limiting power supply. I've got an old stereo out in the garage that I don't trust, as it blew fuses a while ago, and I think it damaged a set of speakers. I can grab the transformer out of it, and get a 25A Diode Bridge, and a couple caps, and have a decent bench supply.
I'll order the ball bearings from Amazon. This stuff won't be here for a little while anyway.
So I ordered T-Nuts. I went to the Nut and Bolt distributor today and got a bunch of metric hardware. The T-Nuts arrived in the mail today. So I put installed the new rod holders, and split the 3 pieces of the Y-Table apart, as the corner holes of the single piece plate were not sized properly for my heated bed. I bolted the left and right sides to the new Y-Plate, and installed those on the new bearing holders. I then centered all this on the frame and tightened it down.
First problem. The distance on the new rod holders between the opening for the rod and the top is too high to go under the table frame when moving the Y axis all the way to the back or front. So I took off the rod holders, and re-installed the original ones, which are shorter, but kept the T-nuts, so I can adjust the position of the rods, in case the holes they drilled in the frame for the Y axis are not right.
Second problem. Since the original 3 piece table resembled an "H", it left space at the front for the belt tensioner. The single piece table frame didn't have such a notch, limiting the travel to the front. So I took that table off and went back to the 3 piece.
So really the only improvement is that now the rod holders can float left and right. I tried to level the table again, and got the same result. Once the table is level to the print nozzle, it's in a bind and the belt slips, even if you try to tighten it.
As a hunch, I took off the glass plate, and leveled the bed again. Now I can get it level, and there is no binding. I think the addition of the glass is putting everything in a bind. I did run the table to 12 different positions, and checked the spacing between it and the nozzle, and it's pretty close, very little deviation. But, when I set the glass on it, I can see that the glass does not sit level and flush on the table. I've ordered another piece of glass, as I've read the people have gotten warped glass from the factory. Of course all these dimensions can change once the bed is heated up.
Amazon is taking back the plate and the rod holders. Gotta love Amazon returns. I just have to take them to the UPS Store in town. They'll box them up and return them, free.
I've been reading and watching Youtube videos about linear rails. They look like a much better option than the rods. The price is reasonable if you get the clones from China. Everything I see about them though says you have to disassemble them, clean out the factory lubrication, clean the rails, and then re-lube everything. Also, the Chinese roller bearings are not good, so good ol' American ball bearings are a good upgrade.
OK, placed a Banggood order. Got 2 Linear rails, some 2020 profile, some T-Nuts, and some 2020 Corner Brackets. I also included a DPS5015 Bench Power Supply module. If you supply up to 60V, you get a programmable Voltage and Current limiting power supply. I've got an old stereo out in the garage that I don't trust, as it blew fuses a while ago, and I think it damaged a set of speakers. I can grab the transformer out of it, and get a 25A Diode Bridge, and a couple caps, and have a decent bench supply.
I'll order the ball bearings from Amazon. This stuff won't be here for a little while anyway.