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Post by gwynethh on Jun 22, 2020 23:09:08 GMT -5
This board? (Zoom on the av1 av2 acc pins) Guess soldering will be the way to go.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jun 23, 2020 10:13:12 GMT -5
Yeah, that's the board I have.
I got a response from buydisplay:
New message from: buydisplay Top Rated Seller(7,961Green Star)
Dear Customer,
My engineer asked you to supply 12V to VCC signal by externally and then the display will be switched from HDMI to AV signal automatically, pls have a try. Thanks.
Best wishes
Ms.Janice Lee
Sales Engineer
I think she meant ACC, and I don't think she knows there is no wire. I'll reply and see what she says. Maybe there is a different plug they can send me to make life easy.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jun 23, 2020 10:29:27 GMT -5
Here's J5, with the lonely pin that is not included in the AV extension plug. All that cord has is a yellow and a white female RCA. One is AV1 and the other is AV2. I tried both, and there is no auto switching with a camera signal applied. So unless they want to send me another plug, a 5 pin, with that extra wire, it looks like I'll be soldering. Not a big deal either way, it would just be nice to have a plug.
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Post by gwynethh on Jun 23, 2020 11:38:13 GMT -5
Sad they skimped on the plug seeing that is a 5 position socket. Good luck on the reverse video select!
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jun 23, 2020 14:10:25 GMT -5
I tested it by jumping 12V to that ACC pin, and it switches to AV2. It takes about 2.5 Sec to see the camera image, and after removing the 12V from the ACC pin it takes about 4 seconds to see the HDMI image. Hopefully I'll get a response from buydisplay and they'll send me the proper AV cable with 5 pin plug with reverse wire. If not, I'll break out the soldering iron.
Over on the Blue Wave Studio forum, there are many people fighting with the Pi cameras, HDMI adapters to extend the Pi camera's cable, reversed images, getting images to show up at all. This seems to be much easier, since there was already a pretty cost effective camera/tailgate handle for the Tacoma.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jun 24, 2020 12:21:48 GMT -5
buydisplay responded last night. I noticed that they responded at 11:19PM EST so I read it and was able to respond back, and then have an answer this morning.
They apologized for the typing error. They confirmed that it was ACC not VCC as they had first responded with. So I responded asking if there was a cable that included not only the AV plugs, but also the wire for the ACC connection. The response this morning says they don't have that available.
So I can either buy some 2mm 5 pin JST plugs and roll my own plug, or just solder a wire to the board.
I think I'll be soldering a wire.
Although I see a JST plug kit on Amazon for like $13. I'd then need a crimper for those little wires. There's a crimper with good reviews for $18.69.
OK, I didn't really want to solder it, so I got a kit of PH JST connectors and pins, a racheting crimper, and some 24AWG wire. Arriving tomorrow.
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Post by SNOtwistR on Jun 24, 2020 14:04:28 GMT -5
The Lilliput monitors just have a green wire coming out the back of the monitor. I hope you have luck with the crimpers I paid 430.00 for my molex crimpers (well worth it). I think I would just solder but that's me. Good luck SNO
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jun 24, 2020 19:18:44 GMT -5
I don't think I'd make enough plugs to make that worth it.
I bought a good hydraulic line flaring tool a couple years ago. I used it once to repair a friend's rusted out brake lines on his Civic. But it worked much better than one of those cheap clamp flaring tools. I hope to use it again. Buy a car for cheap because either the fuel lines or the brake lines are rusted out. But at this point I'm not looking for cheap cars.
This crimper is one of the single step tools, it had good reviews, so I hope It'll be OK.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jun 30, 2020 10:16:28 GMT -5
Well, the crimper works pretty good. As I've never used the professional one, I can't compare it to that.
As long as you know what problems to look for, it was pretty easy. It's just that my fat fingers had a small amount of trouble getting the pin to sit in the right place in the crimper. I suppose it would have been a little easier if I'd have gotten my precision tweezers, but they were out in the garage.
The screen powers up, and switches to the camera input perfectly now. The only problem I have is that I have a black border all around my screen. I can tell it's full screen when the splash video is playing, but towards the end of the splash, the screen flickers, and from there I have the border. It's a little hard to tell on the Open Auto Pro screen, as it's mostly black. But when I switch back to Pi desktop, it quite visible. I think it's an overscan thing. I need to play with that.
I now have all the FFC extenders, and have them installed, and working.
I suppose I need to get my 3D printer going, to print a holder for the screen so it can sit nice in the little cubby.
There are a couple projects ahead of that though. Finish fixing the tow behind mower, work on the wife's car, and put a floor in the garage bathroom.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jul 2, 2020 8:39:04 GMT -5
I checked the overscan setting in the Pi configuration. It was enabled, so I disabled it. The screen now fills the entire area. Cool. The only thing I don't like now is that when I was on the Pi Official Screen, the map used to go all the way across the screen horizontally. The four buttons on the left side used to be across the bottom. Also the clock seems to take up a lot of space. There is a setting on the Pi to "Show clock in Android Auto", It was on, and I turned off, but there was no change. I suppose it's not a bad look, just the big waste of real estate for the clock. Reading through the Blue Wave Studio forums, I see that as of Version 9.0, HiFiberry sound cards are supported natively. Funny, that fact was not in the change log. That's good as many aftermarket sound cards for the Pi seem to use that driver. So now I could use my phat DAC from Pimoroni if I wanted to. Although to do that I'd need to use a stacking header, and be aware of what GPIO is uses. but that would free up a USB port, and probably have better sound.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jul 3, 2020 11:13:24 GMT -5
I found out how to get the screen to look like it did on the Official screen. There is a setting in the Android Auto section about screen resolution. Setting that to 480P makes my screen look like I'm used to. No more wasted real estate. Changing whether the clock is shown in Android Auto has no visible effect for me. Although there is a clock in the upper left corner. It's there whether the setting for the clock in on or off. I did some digging into the pins used by I2S audio on the Pi. Looks like Pins: GPIO 18 = Pi Pin 12 GPIO 19 = Pi Pin 35 GPIO 20 = Pi Pin 38 GPIO 21 = Pi Pin 40 None of which I am using, so no conflicts. So Phat DAC, here we come. Wait, then I lose my microphone. I may have to keep that USB soundcard for the Mic input. I ordered some PETG for the 3D printer. It handles higher temps and supposedly does not deform in a hot car. Still need to get the linear rails installed on the 3D printer.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jul 18, 2020 10:52:01 GMT -5
I decided to design a circuit board at JLCPCB. I really can't test this thing like I need to on my desk without some way to hook up all the extra components. I tried to power the Pi through the GPIO, but my little jumper wires don't pass enough current and it wouldn't boot.
I've got a couple transistor switched relays onboard. One to power the camera and reverse pin to the screen without pulling current from the reverse line. The other relay isolates the trigger for the startup, whether I use ignition or power antenna to start this thing. I could also use the wire that powers up that aux adapter. Again, very little current draw from whatever signal is starting this thing.
Nice big holes to solder an appropriate sized wire to power the Pi into the GPIO. I left extra holes, as I really only need 10 wires between my board and the Pi. Instead of using a ribbon cable, (which the pins are there so I have that option), I can just run individual conductors. In fact, if I do use a ribbon cable, I can still add the large AWG wires for 5V and GND. No lightning bolts for me.
Opto-Isolated inputs for Reverse, Running lights On, Power Antenna, and 3 spares. I left myself some prototyping area if I need to add some outputs.
I also plan to cut a USB cable, and solder it into the board. I have a female USB socket that has an isolated 5V supply with a B0505S-1W isolator. That should prevent any ignition noise from getting into my USB soundcard. I'm not positive if I needed it, but just to be safe.
On the side of the board I have a section that I can cut away and solder in female headers so that I can run my individual conductors to the Pi.
And nice big screw terminals for the incoming wires.
I also placed a $15 parts order from LCSC. Free shipping with a circuit board order. I got some female USB sockets, some opto's, some high current diodes, some plugs, etc.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jul 24, 2020 12:54:50 GMT -5
My new circuit board should be here next Wednesday. Who knows how long the other parts will take.
There was a little confusion on ordering. I thought I'd be smart and include a slot cutout in the board to make it easy to separate the two sections of my circuit. The main section, and then the little board that plugs onto the Pi. Well, they said that the slots were too close to the edge, and they would break. Perfect for me, as I was going to cut them anyway, but they didn't like it. So I changed the slots so they were spaced further from the edge of the board to make them stronger and uploaded the new design. The next day I got another Email saying that my design has two circuits on it, and they wanted me to pay an additional $4. I only paid $2 plus shipping in the first place. So I got rid of the slots, made the ground plane the same network for both sections, and put a copper jumper in between the two sections,, and uploaded it again. That time they accepted it, and I didn't have to pay extra.
The only downside with this circuit compared to the others I've designed is that with the two plugs across one side of the board, it was too wide to add mounting holes. Adding holes took it over the 10cm size limit for the $2 boards. Not a big deal. I'll have to 3D print a little enclosure that this snaps into.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jul 27, 2020 13:52:21 GMT -5
Boards actually arrived today. Tracking the parts shows that they have left China, and might be in US, but who know how long it will take from there. Front Back The board includes space for the RTC board, hence the open spot at the top left of the front side. The very left edge of the board includes a 40 pin R-Pi connector that I can cut off to solder on female headers and wires that go to this interface board. That can then plug that onto the Pi. Overall, it's 3 5/8" x 2 3/4". It could have been smaller, if I used all SMT parts. I have some inventory of parts that I'm trying to use up. Also, the two 8 pin plugs on the right side are large, but give plenty of room for large enough wires, also multiple wires in the same hole. Plus that RTC is not the smallest. I suppose I could have gotten fancy and put it up on edge, at the risk of making the whole thing thicker/taller. Looking forward to parts...
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Post by jhornbr225 on Jul 31, 2020 7:27:53 GMT -5
Parts arrived Wednesday and Thursday. Time to cut up a board, and start building. Hopefully this weekend. It is supposed to rain.
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