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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 5, 2017 9:17:30 GMT -5
I did a quick search on the Joycon. $80? I think I'll use an Adafruit Trinket Pro, which I already have. Thank you for the info on Broadcom. I have not done much research into this, but that's the first I've heard of the Broadcom problem. I have ordered that SMK-Link VP6495 USB 2.0 Bluetooth 4.0 LE EDR Nano Adapter. it should be here Saturday, $15 on Amazon Prime.
I think it will be fun programming the Trinket Pro, we'll see.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 5, 2017 10:08:40 GMT -5
Several of the parts showed up to build the Simple Switcher Power Supply. I ordered some 330Ω 1/4W, some 560Ω 1/4W, and some 6800Ω 1/4W. Well, there is a noticeable size difference between 1/4W and 1/8W, and I think I got the 1/8W for the 330Ω and the 6800Ω. It should not be a problem, the current through those branches of the circuit is minimal. Arrow is investigating. I'd hate for them to be sending out the wrong resistors to everyone. The part number on the bag clearly is for 1/4W. If they ask me to send them back, I won't bother. The price of all 16 resistors was $0.45. Not even worth the stamp to send them back. But for sure they can send me the right ones. Speakers arrived as well. What can I say, they look like speakers. I decided to tackle the front speakers, as then I can take the doors apart, install the speakers, and then put the doors back together. That way more panels will be where they belong, and not strung out all over the garage. Honda followed through with how cheap the factory rear speakers were to the fronts. The frame of the speaker is plastic. it's like they glued the speaker cone to the plastic mounting bracket. And for some reason, there is not enough aftermarket demand for anyone to design/build/sell an adapter bracket for Accords. The bracket Crutchfield sent, (and I do admire Crutchfield's research as to what fits and what does not), is really for a Scion xB. Also there were no specific instructions for how to mount it in the Accord. "Drill holes and install screws". Although the bracket has 3 hole, they are not equally spaced. I found what I thought was the best direction to install them, trying to match the original position of the factory speaker so that the new speaker will fit into the recess in the back of the door panel, and drilled and mounted. Of course you have to supply your own bolts to mount the adapters. The screws supplied with the speakers were too long, also the slots arranged around the ring of the bracket to screw the speaker into did not inspire a lot of confidence that they would not vibrate loose. So I cut the speakers screws shorter, and drill small holes in the plastic ring to screw the speakers in. If I wanted to take the time, and had a 3D printer, i would probably slice that area that the speaker is screwed into to about half the height, epoxy in a 3D printed ring. Then I could install a proper 6.5" speaker, not a 5.25", and so long as the magnet was not too deep, it would fit in the back and it would be the same height on the front. Oh well. I removed the weatherstripping from the back of the factory speaker and stuck it to the back of the Scion xB bracket before i installed it, hopefully to avoid any rattles. The front of the factory speaker, plastic frame in all it's glory. I then moved to the Amp Power cable. Since I could not find the right size grommet to fit both the hole in the car and the cable, I found one that fit the car, and then one that fit the cable. I could then fit one in the opening of the car. and the push the smaller one down the cable into the opening on the larger grommet. Massaging two stacked grommets around a non-slidy cable into a hole in the firewall in the very middle of the engine bay, Fun, with a capital F. I find that I can kneel on the brace that goes in front of the radiator, and rest my forearms on the valve cover...so comfy. I then decided to wrap this cable in split loom tubing, not only to help protect it, but to help it blend in with the rest of the cables under the hood. I could have used 1/2" split loom, but why? When I can torture myself with 3/8", that fits tightly? And did I mention that the cable is non-slidy? The good thing is that I don't have to hold the split loom on there with zip-ties, it's not going anywhere. And the way the cable runs, the weatherproof fuseholder will be under the airbox. The only sign that anything is not factory under the hood is going to be the extra ring terminal on the battery lug. I'm going to have to find some lugs for the Amps. Normal electrical terminals won't work. There were some promising aluminium lugs at Lowe's that will accept 4AWG, but I need to take detailed measurements of the terminal block on the amps to see if I can make them fit. If not, I'll either have to order some, or go over to the Car Audio store and pay out the nose, I assume. i would have put in the rear speakers last night, but I'm going to remove the factory speakers, then do all my fabrication back there. Radio mounting, crossover mounting, fuse block mounting etc.. Then I can put my nice shiny new speakers in the back without fear of damaging them. Getting some help on the Bluetooth side of things, Learned that the Broadcom won't do phone stuff, so I ordered a suggested USB Dongle, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093HNIBO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It should be here Saturday. Thanks flylear45! Onward and Upward!
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Post by flylear45 on Oct 5, 2017 15:04:28 GMT -5
I did a quick search on the Joycon. $80? I think I'll use an Adafruit Trinket Pro, which I already have. Thank you for the info on Broadcom. I have not done much research into this, but that's the first I've heard of the Broadcom problem. I have ordered that SMK-Link VP6495 USB 2.0 Bluetooth 4.0 LE EDR Nano Adapter. it should be here Saturday, $15 on Amazon Prime. I think it will be fun programming the Trinket Pro, we'll see. That one is for CAN-bus. The simpler resistive one is around 35ish I recall. The Trinket should be a fun project. Good luck with the dongle. You need a BlueSoleil license for it....use the BS drivers. Cheers! Jim
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 5, 2017 20:53:29 GMT -5
I see that the Trinket Pro that I was going to use does not have an FTDI on it. So out of the box it can't be used as a HID device. There is a workaround, but it looks clumsy. There is the Trinket M0, but it has limited I/O, only 5 pins. The Metro Mini is looking good, only $12.50, and has a lot more I/O, 20, but it looks like 2 are reserved for the USB to Serial converter. The only other thing that I already have around here that would work is a Pi Zero. Although I'm pretty sure that I don't want to wait for a Pi to boot up before I can use my GPIO pins. Of course, I timed the cold boot to music yesterday on the Panda, and it was 90 Seconds. I have not done any optimization yet. I tried hibernate, and it was still 30 Seconds.
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Post by SNOtwistR on Oct 5, 2017 21:34:36 GMT -5
why are you not just using the Arduino on the latte?
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 6, 2017 7:59:23 GMT -5
To be honest, I forgot it was there. Time to get programming...Thanks for reminding me!
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 6, 2017 14:00:51 GMT -5
Ok, fired up the Panda. Started Arduino 1.0.6 (wow, that's old). Went to Examples:Basics:Blink. I had looked at the COM ports in Device Manager before I started. I saw MJS Gadgets, obviously the HD Radio, and a couple Prolific USB to Serial, Obviously the GPS pucks. COM 1 said communication port, and COM 3 said something. I set the board to Leonardo as it said on the LattePanda site, I then tried to upload on COM 1, but it timed out. So I changed to COM 3, and I now have a blue blinking light inside my Panda. I then uninstalled Arduino 1.0.6, and installed 1.8.5.
When Power is first applied to the Panda, the blue light blinks rapidly for about 8 seconds, then it starts it's 1 sec off/on blinking pattern.
It seems that Driveline does not like when the Arduino is being written to. It puked on some sort of Non-Fatal UI error. It also puked when I uninstalled 1.0.6 and installed 1.8.5. But that's not really a big problem.
I'm sure that it would work, but it would be nice to be sure if the serial monitor works. I would need to get in my fancy case and put a pot on a analog pin, then open the serial monitor. That's a project for another day.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 9, 2017 20:32:51 GMT -5
OK, got the Bluetooth dongle the other day. Finally had some time to play with it tonight. As suggested, I installed the Bluesoleil latest version as suggested by SNO in the BlueSoleil post. I am able to play Bluetooth Audio off of my phone, and I was able to make a call from Driveline. I didn't have a microphone installed, so I hung up before the wife answered the house phone. What is everyone using for a microphone?
I'm a little fuzzy on buying the license. That website is in Chinese. Is that right? Do I need to click the download and pay, then I'll get the serial number in an email? I read the reviews/support, and none of the post are good. Looks like everyone complains about support.
I see that I have more skin modding to do. I enlarged the albumart and shifted a couple things around. Now that I click on the BT and Pandora tab, all the right stuff is not getting hidden at the right times, should not be a too much of a problem to fix.
I have not worked on the car for the last few days. Friday I installed a Double DIN Pioneer for a friend. We ended up crimping the microphone cable. I had another mic, and it worked fine. So I removed the original mic from the car so that I could install the one I had. And as I was checking the cable, I found the crimp. A quick snip and a little solder, and we were back in business. The wife took vacation this week so we could work on a project that we have been putting off for too long. That's going to take most of the week. I have been thinking about how to boot this thing. Presently I'm thinking I will use the illumination line coming into the factory stereo to signal an Adafruit Trinket to close a relay that will enable the 5V, 5A supply. That way, when I unlock the car, the supply will turn on, then 8 seconds later, I will be able to use the Arduino in the LattePanda. If I don't turn the key on within 2 minutes or so, I'll have the supply disable, which will also kill power to the Trinket. Of course it will also enable the supply when I lock the car. But unless I specifically attach to the unlock line, it can't be helped. The illumination line at the stereo will be much easier to access. I'll also have turning the key on fire up the Trinket to enable the supply as well.
I'm beginning to think that I might go with a temporary alternative to the Panda after I get the speakers and amps installed. There is going to be some thinking and programming to get everything working right, and the car is so far apart right now that I can't drive it. There were a lot pf pieces to remove to get those side panels off. If the amps are done and levels are set, I could put all that back together. I'm wondering if a Raspberry Pi 3 would recognize the Sony Input box and treat it as USB speakers as the PC does. I could then put a Pi and touchscreen running Kodi in the cubby, and still have music while I am developing the Panda. I'd have to boot it and shut it down manually, and my steering wheel controls would not work. I could take the time to do some scripts so that it turn on with the key, and shuts down properly when the key is shut off, but why take the time?
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 15, 2017 18:18:22 GMT -5
Worked on the car for a few minutes last night. I had to replace a suspension end link on the wife's car, worked on that during the day. We are still working on that other project, but took a day off to do some sorely needed stuff around the house, (Mow grass). I got the door panels back on. I have also mounted the Sub Amp in it's home. I'll have to take it out to wire the stuff on the bottom side, but at least I know how the wires will need to be run. I started thinking about how to mount the crossover and the stereo under the package shelf, but was rudely interrupted by the wife for dinner. I was elected to go get the pizza, and we had dinner with the neighbors. So that pretty much shot the rest of the night.
For the time being we will be concentrating on the other project, so the car will mostly be on hold.
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Post by flylear45 on Oct 15, 2017 21:07:45 GMT -5
So, yeah. It sounds like you have the BS thing right. I know it seems a little sketchy on their hokey website, but it worked for me.
I'm stuck in Dallas for another week in training on a new aircraft, so I'm on hold, too.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 15, 2017 21:12:36 GMT -5
I ordered the license tonight. The Serial Number came immediately. I put it in the LP, and it showed that I had a valid Copy. So far so good.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 18, 2017 21:10:48 GMT -5
Well, I ordered a LCR meter off Ebay, and it arrived yesterday. It came assembled except for the case. So I assembled it last night. www.ebay.com/itm/2017-TFT-GM328-Transistor-Tester-Diode-LCR-ESR-meter-PWM-Square-wave-Generator/172557508334?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=471403196092&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649Looks like it does a bunch of other stuff too. Square wave generator, frequency measurement, PWM generator, voltmeter. It will be limited since it's all based on an Atmega328P. I had ordered some inductors off Amazon. I ordered 2 sets, as they were a 10 pack of 100uH, 6A, for $2.30. So 20 inductors for $4.60. Well, 10 have arrived, even though Amazon thinks they are still in shipment. I tested them with the LCR meter and it says they are 120uH at 0.1 Ohm. I tested another inductor that I ordered a while ago from Mouser for another switcher supply, it's a Murata brand 100uH, 5.4A. The LCR meter says that one is 80uH and 0.1 Ohm. Hopefully the Amazon ones work out. I should be getting 10 more. The expected arrival was supposed to be between Oct 30 and Nov 16. There is quite a bit of difference between the Murata and the Amazon ones. We'll give them a shot. I believe I have all the parts now to start assembling power supplies. Of course, now I have to find the time. I'll breadboard it first to see how it goes. Arrow sent an email saying that their investigation shows that the resistors are correct. I say Bull Pucky. I've got half a mind to hook them to a variable power supply and allow some current to flow. If they can't handle 175mW, then I'll know I was right, but then I'll have a burnt up resistor. I know I have some of the 330Ω and the 6800Ω out in my work toolbox, but I really didn't want to have to dip into those. Those were included in one of those Radio Shack resistor assortments. That tells you how old they are. Radio Shack has been out of my area for a little while now. What do you know? I just hooked up the 330Ω resistor, and put enough voltage across it to have it dissipate 193mW, and no smoke. I used 8.1VDC, and 24.2mA flowed. I felt a little heat, but nothing bad. These are the smallest damn 1/4 W resistors I have ever seen. I guess Arrow was right. I really didn't need the 330Ω. I had bought a package of 200 330Ω 1/4W at a place in Phoenix, AZ called Circuit Specialists, when I was out there last. I needed some resistors to terminate an RS485 network. Since I was there, I bought a pack of 330Ω, 1KΩ, and 10KΩ for myself. I seem to use those values a lot while experimenting. They were selling resistors for 10¢ each, or 200 for $3. It was silly to spend 10¢ each, when you could buy 200 for 1.5¢ each.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 27, 2017 20:13:53 GMT -5
Well, I had a few minutes the other night, so I breadboarded the power supply. At first it put out 10V! Then figured out that the feedback pin on the device was not firmly down in the breadboard. I don't have a lot of confidence in hooking this up to anything valuable until it's properly built and soldered onto a perf board. I don't want that feedback pin coming out of the breadboard and the output going to 10V again. Pay no attention to anything behind the B735 Transistor looking device. That stuff is for an ESP8266 project that I have been working on for a while. I had to move one of the ESP8266-01's to the back corner of the board to clear up the front corner for this power supply. Anyway, with the 330Ω feedback resistor, I got like 5.12VDC. I started looking around for some power resistors to load it down for testing, and I can't find anything suitable. So, I ordered a 150W Constant Current Electronic Load Battery Discharge Capacity Tester for like $26. www.ebay.com/itm/252974745327There was a 60W tester on there for about $17, but I thought the 150W one would be better. Now I just have to wait for it to come from China. I knew this would be a slow project. The wife and I have been working on this side project for like 3 weeks now. We are getting close though. I have also been elected to change the brakes, calipers and rotors on my Brother's Fiance's sons 2003 Accord V6. I ordered the V6 Supplement manual from eBay. I already have the main manual for that generation Accord, but the V6 is a little different. I like to have the proper torque values for everything. Some will call me a torque nazi. It's just that I have a couple nice torque wrenches, and I like to use them. It also ensures that the bolts are tight enough, and that nothing is going to break off. We have all had instances where we don't know our own strength. A friend of mine also called because we have been intending to change his oil pan gasket on his 2000 Civic. I have been putting it off, waiting until it was time for him to get an oil change. That way we'll drain the oil, drop the exhaust, drop the pan, change the gasket, then put it back together with a fresh oil change and filter. Well, it's time for an oil change. In the back of my mind I have this dread about dropping an exhaust. But I've dropped a couple, and never had a problem, just hit the flange bolts with the impact, and they come off. Then you just take the exhaust down as one piece and set it aside. He also says he needs a new o-ring on his dipstick tube. I did one of those on my last Civic, same generation, and as I remember, it was a bear getting the dipstick tube out of the block. Only one bolt, that's the easy part. It's just that they are tight, and there is no room to twist and pull it out. I got it out on mine, I'm sure I'll get his out somehow.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Oct 31, 2017 21:50:05 GMT -5
Found a little time to play with the Power Supply tonight. I drew up the PCB in CAD and mapped out all the traces. I shifted it around the board a few times before deciding on the final layout and position. I have taken most of Mickz's advice that I found on the (now-defunct) MP3Car forum. I had the foresight to print off some of the relevant posts a few weeks ago as reference. I made a few changes to his design. I've decided to keep all the components on one side of the board. This has increased the distance between the LM2678 and the MBR735 slightly. I have made every attempt to keep these current paths large, and surround them with a ground plane. The perf board I have is a little different, I got the individual holes, not the strips, and I got double sided. I'll be soldering lengths of solid wire to connect the holes. I've got a slightly larger enclosure. I hope to put the extra filters inside, and separate them with a shield. For running the feedback wire, I plan to cut a small piece of shielded cable from an old pair of headphones, and use that to run the wire from the 330Ω resistor to pin 6 of the LM2678. I'll only be grounding the shield at the resistor end. The CAD is drawn from the bottom of the board. In the picture of the layout, the LM2678 is not stretched out to fit in the holes of the board. I'm only going to bend it once, and I need to be sure that I can reach the side of the enclosure to mount the devices before I solder them to the board. I need to stop at the Nut House tomorrow and get some 3mm screws and nuts to mount the TO-220 devices to the case. I got a 100 pack of those insulating pads and washers from Ebay. I'm going to cut the perf board with the dremel instead of a razor knife. That way I won't have half a hole as the side that butts against the inside of the enclosure. The black mark on the left side of the perf board is my cut line. The 4 black spots on the corners of the CAD will be slightly enlarged holes for mounting the board inside the enclosure. I'm thinking either #8 or #10 screws with nuts and star washers. I'll be mounting the board upright instead of on it's side as Mickz did. I think the 4 mounting bolts will provide a nice chassis ground for the board. If anyone sees any fatal flaws with my master plan, please feel free to comment!
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Post by jhornbr225 on Nov 10, 2017 0:09:59 GMT -5
OK, I might be changing directions slightly. For me, the LattePanda is taking like 90 seconds to cold boot. It even takes 30 seconds for Hibernate. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, I'm not sure.
I've ordered a Beelink BT3 Pro Mini 4GB/64GB for $119 on Gearbest. I will then use the LattePanda in my Toyota Tacoma Pickup, following a similar route as SNO on his Double DIN build. I've also ordered a TDA7850 Quad amp for inside the Double DIN enclosure. I've ordered a 10 Pack of Arduino Nano's with CH340G USB chips onboard, $2.22/each with shipping from ebay. I've also ordered a Nano that's set up for 3.3V, as I already have one of the SiLabs Si4703 FM Radio breakout boards. I'm hoping to put the 3.3V Arduino and the SiLabs Radio Breakout inside the Double DIN so I can have FM radio. I'll have to do the antenna mod to the board, and route the audio into a USB soundcard, like I am now with the Directed. Hopefully that will work. I know Driveline supports the commercial version of the Silabs, but I'm cheating. I think the only difference is that I don't use a DAC onboard the breakout board though.
The Double DIN won't work in the Accord due to the stupid dash, but I already have a Double DIN install kit for the Tacoma, and a Black Box-N Double DIN PC case. I have been driving the Tacoma daily, as the Accord is taken apart. And I've found that I HATE the radio in the Tacoma. A few months ago I tried to add one of those USB stick CD changer emulators like I did in the Accord. If it had worked like the one in the Accord did, I'd be happy. But it sucked, it skipped songs, wouldn't play files, and displayed the wrong stuff on the display of the radio. I sent it back to Amazon for a refund. So I have decided to order parts for the Tacoma as well.
If the Beelink does not work for me, I'll let the wife have it for a desktop PC.
Haven't fixed any of the cars that I have lined up yet. Not my fault, I have to schedule with the folks, as they are still driving the cars. But I do think I'll be installing the oil pan gasket tomorrow, and the complete front brake job on Saturday. I have made some serious progress on the side job though. Hopefully that will be winding down soon.
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