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Post by michael on Dec 3, 2018 18:06:00 GMT -5
I know I'm a little late to the game but I would like to see if it is possible and I can get it done before I die or the car does Either way I'll still have a PC in a different car. I have a 2000 Intrepid that does not have any factory steering wheel radio controls but it looks like the 2001 model had it and it is possible to put it in mine but using a PC not sure what is needed to do this. I would like to control RR and or Driveline. I would like to have next and previous but more importantly would be a way to have a trigger for voice commands (for DFXvoice) or Driveline Now I use DFXVoice 95% of the time so I don't need to touch the screen, using an IR remote and eventghost but would like to stop using the remote control. I thought there was something out there when mp3car was still around but don't remember. Any input will be greatly appreciated.
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Post by SNOtwistR on Dec 3, 2018 20:11:20 GMT -5
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Post by jhornbr225 on Dec 4, 2018 7:11:44 GMT -5
Arduino Pro Micro with the 324u4 processor has native USB, and can be used to simulate keyboard inputs. Driveline has pretty good keyboard inputs, and with COM's support, anything is possible.
In my 2007 Accord with resistive steering wheel controls, I have grabbed the wire coming into the stereo, and fed it into a Analog I put on the Arduino. I'll have Vol+/-, track/station prev/next, and mode, to switch between sources. Arduino Pro Micros are less than $5 from China via eBay.
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Post by COMpulse on Dec 4, 2018 10:14:48 GMT -5
I think the JoyCon is probably the most User Friendly and it's what most people used. I don't know a ton about the JoyCon myself, but DriveLine has programmable hotkey support, so anything that outputs keyboard commands could be used to trigger any action in DriveLine.
Ctrl + L = Listen for Voice Command Ctrl + Right Arrow = Next Track Ctrl + Left Arrow = Prev Track
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Post by michael on Dec 4, 2018 12:33:05 GMT -5
Thanks, Guys Now I have a direction to go.
Before I track down the parts needed I wanted to see if anyone sees any problems with this info below. I asked on the car forum and this is what they said.
I'm petty sure the only year that will have a 7 wire clockspring is 2001 for your application. 1998-2000 didn't have steering wheel audio controls. It was introduced in 2001.
Cruise control switches are actually using different resistance readings that are relayed to the BCM to interpret which switch was pressed. It's the same setup for the Audio controls. You have two rocker switches and a button on the center of each switch. There are only two wires in the clockspring associated with those two rockers/push buttons for six functions.
I just wanted to make sure that only 2 wires are needed to accomplish this from the solutions SNO & jhornbr225 provided.
Thanks
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Post by COMpulse on Dec 4, 2018 14:06:02 GMT -5
I have no idea. I think you would need to use a multimeter (or find a spec sheet) to figure out which resistances map to which functions. Then, I think the joycon can be configured "For X resistance output Y key-code". but I have no experience with any part of this. I looked up a JoyCon, and found this: www.cartft.com/en/catalog/il/1552There's a spec sheet PDF for the Joy Con. It sounds like it does what you want.
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Post by revheadkev on Dec 4, 2018 18:01:22 GMT -5
I would go with the Arduino Pro Micro. It is heaps cheaper than the JoyCon, much smaller, you can get free programming software for Arduino and there are heaps of tutorials on the net to help. It also has digital and analog I/O pins for other signals you may wish to read or control at the same time instead of just your steering wheel controls.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Dec 4, 2018 19:51:27 GMT -5
Yeah, you just need the detailed shop manual to show how those switches are hooked up. For my Honda, I have the manual that the dealerships use to service the car. A very good $100 bucks or so spent. It's got the full wiring details as well. It even shows me the resistance values in the wheel. I put my meter on the signal into the radio, and by doing the math with pressing the buttons and checking the voltage, I determined that a 2500 Ohm resistor was inside the radio tied to 5VDC to power those buttons. Since the Arduino pin is 5V capable, (be sure to get the 5V Arduino, not the 3.3V), I put a 1K to 5V, and calculated my voltages from there. I drew it up in AutoCAD to help me visualize it. If you look close you can see, from the top down on the string of resistors, 100, 270, 470, 1.2K, 3.9K. There is a 10K in parallel with the whole string. I was hoping to get different voltages by combining two or more buttons, but no luck, the highest button up the string gives you it's voltage value, no matter what other buttons you have pressed. So in my case, Volume Down always wins. I know it may not be possible, but maybe you could check out getting a clockspring and a wheel from the 2001. If everything else about it is the same. Another option, more involved, but without making major changes to the clockspring and the Wheel. There are accessory buttons that attach to wheels to simulate steering wheel controls. I would get one of those. I would then find the 12V line inside the steering wheel. It way not be labeled 12V, but for instance, the Horn is tied to 12V, then pushing the horn button ties that wire to ground providing the path for the current to flow and blow the horn. As long as you don't try to draw a lot of current from that wire, you'll see 12V, and the horn will not blow. Hook that through a diode, and charge up a capacitor. Regulate that voltage across the capacitor down to 3.3V. Use that 3.3V to power an ESP8266. An ESP8266 transmitting on Wifi uses about 80mA, very low current. Put your analog voltage into the ESP8266, but it does have a 1VDC max input. Write Arduino code to install into the ESP8266 that sends out serial data via Wifi, that communicates with another ESP8266. That second ESP8266 is in the dash, have it's serial output go into the Arduino Pro Micro, and Viola', you now have wireless steering wheel controls. No new clockspring needed.
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Post by michael on Dec 4, 2018 23:40:16 GMT -5
Yeah, I would definitely need the 2001 clockspring if I go that route. The factory manual states these resistances
Right (White) Volume Up 1.210 Kilohms Right (White) Volume Down 3.010 Kilohms Right (White) Mode Advance 0.0511 Kilohms Left (Black) Seek Up 0.261 Kilohms Left (Black) Seek Down 0.681 Kilohms Left (Black) Pre-Set Station Advance 0.162
EDIT:
I went the Joycon EXR route and it worked pretty good but... It only allows up to 5 keystrokes per switch which are pretty useless IMO so I just used Eventghost to remap it.
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