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Post by COMpulse on Sept 12, 2017 13:25:37 GMT -5
That i like better.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Sept 12, 2017 16:29:36 GMT -5
Yes, that's another possibility. Honda's have the infamous Master Relay no start condition. Loose connections on the Master Relay under the dash cause the fuel pump to not run. Lots of fun when you leave the car with the windows rolled up on a hot day. Driving around on a hot day, running just fine, stop, roll up the windows to go inside somewhere. Come back out, get in hot car. It won't start....crank, crank, crank. Let the interior cool down. Car starts.
Spend 10 minutes pulling out Master Relay. Solder connections, put it back in, problem fixed.
Although once my wife's car had the opposite condition with the Master Relay. When you shut the car off, the MCU was actually still awake due to the relay sticking on. It confuses the hell out of the MCU when some sort of predicted transmission pressure does not equal the measured pressure. Throws a code. Not fun when you are already freaking out because the 01-04 Honda V6 Auto transmissions are known to be crap. And I went through the time and effort to swap it with one from an 05' Odyssey. Everything was good for a few thousand miles. Then it went into some sort of intermittent limp mode, simulating neutral, you could go like 2 MPH max. I checked and changed the fluid again, replaced all the frayed grounds to the tranny. Finally after lots of research, and some investigation at my local Honda Dealership, (and some funny looks for all my seemingly random questions), found the Master Relay would intermittently stick "On". Very rare problem, only came up as a TSB on an Acura TSX I think. Spent $50 on a new Master Relay, problem fixed.
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Post by COMpulse on Sept 14, 2017 12:58:01 GMT -5
So I spent more money at AutoZone. 5 quarts oil. 1 quart trans fluid. 1 gallon coolant. 1 thermostat. 1 bottle of engine degreaser. 2 M10-1.5 nuts. Confirmed they fit the exhaust studs.
Basically everything I can think of to be ready for installation.
I also ordered a dust cover for the bell housing. Probably not gonna have the right bolts when it arrives anyway, but I'll be half a step closer to complete.
I borrowed an air compressor to help clean the engine (and engine bay) and fill the rear tires. If the tires are completely shot, I'll have to figure something out.
I'm still considering doing a gasket job (both main seals, oil pan, intake manifold) on the motor before installing it. But I don't want to take the chance of me compromising the engine if it's currently in working order. And I don't want to spend more money right now. So, maybe next time.
I have not purchased new belts. I've still got the old ones for now.
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Post by COMpulse on Sept 18, 2017 10:00:32 GMT -5
So, I started cleaning off the engine supercharger snount. First with some wipes and a metal wire brush and some WD-40. But that sucked. The front of the engine is pretty dirty. Valve covers, fuel rails, etc. After using some de-greaser, hosing down the engine with a garden hose, and a little scrubbing, here's how it looks. The valve covers and fuel rails look nice. Supercharger looks alright. I gave up on any hope of a clean lower end of the block. In order to keep the power steering pump out of the way, I hung it from the passenger mirror with my tow straps. In order to lower the engine into the engine bay, the oil filter housing needed to be removed (unfortunately). I'll need to buy a new gasket. The transmission mount bushing looks a bit worn out. Hope it's okay. After a lot of work, I lowered the engine into the car and secured it with an upper motor mount. I also installed the bell housing bolts most of the way. The bracket that secures the transmission to the engine block is different. Here's the new one. The mount curves under the transmission. The old one curves above the transmission. I need to get the power steering pump reattached. This is tough. I need to get the trans bracket attached. Wonder where those bolts are... Then I need to get the oil filter housing back on with a new gasket. Then reattach the AC compressor to the front of block. The temperature is going to be in the 80's for the next week so it might take a while to get everything done.
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Post by revheadkev on Sept 18, 2017 20:10:04 GMT -5
80's...just a WARM summer day here in AUS
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Post by flylear45 on Sept 19, 2017 7:34:13 GMT -5
It's coming along, COM!
I have been putting aftermarket power windows, power door locks along with a remote start in the '07 GMC Canyon. It's a slow moving project,too. LOL I'm also replacing the speakers in advance of doing some kind of carfotainment system.
Keep us posted.
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Post by COMpulse on Sept 19, 2017 9:48:35 GMT -5
It's daunting to know that even after dropping the engine into the car, I still have a LOT of work to do. And it's not easy work. I'm going to jack the car up higher now that I don't have to worry about clearance of the hoist.
My floor jack keeps lowering itself. Can't really trust it. Time to replace it, or try adding hydraulic fluid.
My old car is under 2 tons (3500 pounds), but my new car is over two tons (4400 pounds), so I should probably get a jack that can do 2.5+ tons.
There's always something to complicate the process.
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Post by jhornbr225 on Sept 19, 2017 10:45:44 GMT -5
As far as I know, Floor Jacks are not designed to maintain with weight on for long periods. Please use something solid, jackstands, tires, etc. Not to invoke any jealousy, but this is what I use. I have not changed a motor yet. I was going to, got the motor out of a donor car, but then decided to sell the whole lot. I had already found another car that was nicer and a decade newer, and cheaper. I have done quite a bit of suspension work, control arms, struts, tie rods, ball joints, etc. I've also changed a couple transmissions. One was Auto, one was manual. The black thing in between the runways of the lift is a rolling jack. That little item has made life much easier. Even though it is hydraulic, it has locking positions. I also have the blue solid shelf there, designed to be used with bottle jacks. That is such a pain though, I never used it much. I've got 14 foot ceilings now, but the old house only had 8 foot. The lift was still very useful, but I could only go up about 3 clicks. I actually changed the auto trans at the old house. I took off the tires and removed the axles, (front wheel drive), then put the tires back on. I did the rest of the work with the car sitting on all 4 tires, nice and steady and secure.
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Post by COMpulse on Sept 19, 2017 11:31:42 GMT -5
Of course I am using jack stands, and I have the wheels under the car too. It's been on stands for like 2 years now. But now my jack wouldn't hold my transmission up for more than 90 seconds without coming down. I think it's time to get a new one or try servicing it. For the peace of mind, time for a new jack.
That lift is pretty sweet, but well out of my budget and I don't have the space for it. But I am jealous.
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Post by COMpulse on Sept 19, 2017 15:40:29 GMT -5
So, I went and got a new jack. And the damn thing doesn't lift as high as the old one. So I used the old one and got the jack stands higher under the car. I also picked up a gasket for the oil filter housing. But the big accomplishment for the day was getting the power steering pump attached. I had to remove the tensioner pulley bracket and coolant elbows. Here's the old one and the new one. With the tensioner out of the way, I could finally see the holes for the bolts to attach the power steering pump. Here's the pump installed. I will need to replace the coolant elbows and reattach the tensioner pulley bracket. Fortunately, I already have the new elbows:
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Post by revheadkev on Sept 19, 2017 16:40:10 GMT -5
Does something fit on the side of that head behind the power steering pump ? Doesn't look like much room to fit it if there is.
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Post by COMpulse on Sept 19, 2017 17:37:06 GMT -5
The 3 bolt holes are for the tensioner bracket.
The larger circle on the head that looks like a hole actually goes nowhere.
Getting that PS pump attached was difficult.
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Post by flylear45 on Sept 19, 2017 17:56:37 GMT -5
Good job. The trick is to do what you are doing, tackle it one thing at a time.
I should have built my garage with higher ceilings. I only have 9.5' so a lift would be cramped. I have thought about one many times, though.
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Post by COMpulse on Sept 19, 2017 19:19:58 GMT -5
I feel like I was getting a little sloppy by the time I pulled the engine last year. There are a few things where I'm thinking to myself "where would I have put those bolts?" and "why didn't I take a picture of that?"
But being a programmer, whenever I'm about to start writing something big, I always start by writing the definitions of the main steps in proper order. Then focus on writing whatever is required to accomplish one of the steps. At work or even in this thread, I make lists of what I need to do. And then adjust those lists as things get done and new things get added.
And now that I think about it, I haven't really spent that much time under the car. There isn't a whole lot I can get to under there on my GTP. And I will probably never be enough of a gear head to have a lift. But I am starting to feel like a "car guy" a little bit.
Does anybody use ramps? I've never gone under a car on ramps. But it looks like any easy way to get a car high enough to work on it. Opinions?
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Post by jhornbr225 on Sept 19, 2017 19:42:32 GMT -5
Even in the old garage, that was lucky if it was 8 feet, (it was probably a couple inches short), I had to use a low clearance kit for the garage doors, and the rail of the garage door opener was flush with the ceiling. I could get the lift up to the third click, which was plenty to get a creeper under it. It put the tires/hubs at a nice height to do brakes while sitting on a small stool. I could sit on the creeper under the car and do stuff as well. Even my truck, A Toyota Tacoma 4x4, could go on the lift. I could not raise it, but it gave me the extra room underneath to make changing oil easy. I could raise it a small bit, but not to the first physical lock. In those cases I would put a jackstand or some blocks under the horizontals to hold it for sure, since it is hydraulic.
I really like the Bendpak. It is what Jesse James uses. I first saw one years ago on his show "Monster Garage". It's not the cheapest though. Although, I'm not sure I'd want the cheapest if I was walking around under it all the time.
I had a few small problems with the initial assembly. Some manufacturing defects. Although they are designed in the US, they are made in China. One of the pulleys for the cables was so crooked it was rubbing the deck. No problem, send it back and we'll send you another runway. The problem was, that was the runway with the cylinder in it. What they wanted me to do, and failed to mention, was to take all the parts that were pre-assembled at the factory out of the runway and keep them, as they were just sending me a runway. So, I sent back the runway as I had received it, with the cylinder, pulleys, guides all installed. I did have to go up to the next big town, about 30 miles to a trucking depot to pick up all these parts. Basically, when the new runway arrived at the depot, I drove up and we exchanged runways. Of course the new one was in a box, and I had no reason to question if it was already assembled with all the parts, as I got the first one all assembled, right? When I got it home and unboxed it, I found out it was an empty rail, no cylinder, guides or pulleys. So they had to ship me another pallet full of parts. Then, as I was installing the cylinder, the large pin that goes horizontally though some blocks in the runway, and through the cylinder to hold it in place, anyway, the pin was too large for the holes in the runway blocks. We figured out that the pin was right, if fit in the cylinder, but the holes in the runway were too small. That was the last straw, I told Bendpak to send a service person to get that pin installed. So a local lift service company came out and enlarged the holes so the pin would fit, for free. And, for all the extra problems I had, they sent me an 8 Gallon rolling oil drain pan. So, the customer service was excellent. I had bought it in December 2010, and it took until February to get it all working. In 2014, I noticed that the new runway I got had no serial tag on it. So I contacted them again, and they had my info, and sent me a serial plate out right away.
The nice thing was that I was able to assemble it myself. I definitely needed the cherry picker, and some rolling dollies though. When it came time to move it to the new house, no problem. I was able to disassemble it, load it on my trailer, move it to the new house, and re-assemble it, all by myself.
So, in my opinion, if you do this kind of car stuff, and have the means, I say it's well worth it.
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